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"It Don't Come Easy"
| Pug Article |
| Logo by Glory Smith |
~By Sandra Morgan
®
Evaluating show puppies is a lengthy process. Obviously, we look at them from the
moment they are born in hopes of finding “the one” that will go on to be that Best
In Show Winner, but the truth is they change so much, it is nearly impossible to
tell what you really have until they are at least 8 – 12 weeks old.
How I evaluate my pups is based upon the lines I’m working with. Other breeders
establish their own “rules” and my methods may not work for everyone, especially
if their Pugs are not related to mine. I have had enough litters that I can usually
tell my show prospects by around 10 -12 weeks of age.
The first thing I look for is size and shape of their heads. Width of underjaw,
bite, placement of nose, ears, and size of ears and eyes play an important role in
“who’s who in the zoo.”
If you are familiar with the Illustrated Standard on the Pug Dog Club of America’s
web site, the terms and traits I’ll be using will be much easier to understand. You
may want to go to that site and print off a copy for this discussion.
Second to head traits in my book are the body traits. It is probably second at
this point in my breeding program, because I feel Pugs are “a head breed” and as a
general type, show breeders seem to be getting away from the traditional Pug
head, much to my dismay. However, the Pug pup’s body is absolutely key to having
a good sound representative of the breed for showing and breeding.
I typically see nice bone and substance starting at six to eight weeks. At this
time I will see nice short backs, too, on most of my pups. So, heads are the first
thing I look at, starting at about 10 weeks of age.
How far apart are the eyes? Wide set large eyes, with little to no white around
the edges are important to me. I think our Pugs’s eyes are getting smaller all the
time, and away from the standard’s ideal. A good eye may be prone to eye
problems, if not completely correct, so this may be the reason, but a good eye can
be seen on my boy Cruiser, and even more correct as see on his son, Tyler.
Large, round, not protruding, soft in expression, expressive, and very dark brown.
Are the center of the eyes even with the top of the nose? Do the ears tips even
with the corner of the eyes? These are the things I watch for, along with any
noticeable problems with excessive tearing.
Head shape, should be as square as possible to me. This happens when there is a
nice width of underjaw, the look of a square, blocky head. Ears should be set high
enough there is no “dome” to the top. Wrinkles are nice at this age, but I don’t
expect them. Even the indication of where they will be is nice before 10 weeks,
and I’m looking for the start of wrinkles, and a nose roll that covers the “bee
sting” (bump above the nose) by 12 weeks.
Next would be the evaluation of the pup’s body. Bone is key in a show puppy. A pup
at 12 weeks should have nice bone for their body. It usually isn’t as much as they
had at 8 weeks, especially with the girls. Just don’t assume they will get more. It
can happen, and I’ve seen it, but I never assume it. Most of the girls do not, and
the majority of the boys, but anything is possible after sexual maturity.
Length of back and correct (level) toplines come next. Followed by correct lay of
shoulder, rib cage placement and tail set. Any of these can be a deal breaker for
me, and of course check those boys for their testicles, since it isn’t likely they
will descend properly after 12 – 16 weeks of age. Nothing is worse than having the
beautiful new show male pup suck one up into the abdominal cavity AFTER you’ve
started planning that boy’s show career.
Movement can now start to be evaluated. Watch how they move on a level surface
coming towards you, and away. Watch the side movement. After observing them
move naturally, teach the pup to walk and trot on a lead. Once the pup is
comfortable with the lead, have someone else watch the pup move, then have them
move the pup while you watch. What do you both see? Is the front clean or hack-
kneed? Do they move in a straight line, throw out a leg? Do they move cleanly in
the rear? How do they gait? How do the stack themselves? Anything other than a
clean natural mover and free stacker should be monitored closely and continuously
before you make your final decision.
Last, but for showing purposes not least, we come to the cosmetics of the pup. If
you want to win in the ring there will be some cosmetic traits you need to be
aware of, but things that you may want for your breeding program that are out of
style with the judges. Let’s face it, the lovely clear light coats are pretty, and the
double curl tail perfection, but what about pigment? Clear nails are no big deal to
some breeders, but in my opinion, just the beginning of other pigment problems.
You must decide what’s important to you, winning, or breeding, or both.
We each have a type in our mind’s eye that we breed to, that is within our
interpretation of the standard. The traits we have, what we want, what we
consider out of the question, what we don’t mind. All these decisions will make or
break us in the ring, and as breeders. Some can be changed or fixed quite easily,
others will take years to remedy. We must understand each trait, how it
contributes to the overall balance of the Pug, and what the alternatives are.
Example, you have a girl that needs some pigment on her toenails. You find a stud
dog that has black nails. What do you think the resulting litter will give you? How
important are the toenails when you consider the rest of the dog’s traits? Do you
know if the dog has light nails behind him? Do any of his siblings have them?
Research may or may not result in good solid information, so what are you willing
to risk?
In conclusion, I look for solid blocks, or chunks, with good balance and movement,
short backs, level toplines, heavy bone, large wide heads with wide eyes and
underjaws, good pigment, proper shoulder layback, correct rib placement, tails
held tight to the body (curls come later), and a energetic outgoing personality. I
wait till the pups are 12 weeks to decide who I’m placing as a pet (unless it’s
obvious before then), I keep my prospects a month or two longer to see how the
awkward “preteen stage” affects them, and I do my final evaluation at about six
months. If they aren’t looking good at six months, I’m not willing to spend the
money to put them in the ring. If I do, I give them until about two years of age,
and decide if I will show them, or with the girls, I may use them in my breeding
program, if I know their pedigree is one I can work with, and I know their faults
are mostly cosmetic.
I’ve spayed and neutered finished AKC champions that I never bred, and I’ve sold
as pets, all the pups from others. It’s not easy, but the key is to be
discriminating. Better to avoid problems with undesirable traits than spend
countless generations trying to eliminate them from you future litters.
Preparing To Show Your Pup
Now that you have that special pup, what's next? What equipment do you need to
get started with that special new pup? The right show lead is the most important
piece of equipment needed to show the dog. Second, is good grinder to keep
those toenails nice and short. Third, in my opinion, is a really good pair of thinning
shears. I would assume you already have a nice brush, even pets need a good
brushing on a regular basis, but I also like a nice metal flea type comb for
removing dead undercoat. You can also purchase a shedding tool, for a black Pug I
recommend a red handled stripping knife to clean out the dead undercoat that
makes those blacks look "burnt" or a reddish brown when the old undercoat "dies"
and needs to come out to restore the shine and nice black color your black pup
had at birth.
For fawns there is a tool called the "Fermanator" that works wonders once they
start to develop little "tufts" of lighter under coat that you can pull out, but
leaves a "hole" on the surface of the coat. The regular shedding out of the
undercoat happens at least once a year, and usually each dog will do it at the same
time every year. Females that have had a litter will also "blow coat" once she
starts weaning her pups.
Next, you need some kind of crate, unless you're only taking one Pug to the ring,
and you don't mind holding it (remember you are going in the ring and having all
the Pug hair on you nice clean clothes can be distracting to the judge, who was
probably a professional handler before they became a judge, so this isn't
something you want them to see) for several minutes during the down time
outside the ring. If you bring a crate, you'll probably want a crate dolly.
Of course no one starts off with all this equipment, but one dash to the ring from
the parking lot, carrying a dog to avoid mud puddles, in the pouring rain, and you'll
figure out it's easier to pull the dolly while your Prince, or Princess, rides safely
inside the dry crate. If you have a big coat with a hood (I live where it rains a lot),
or a grooming coat over your show clothes, a spare pair of comfortable shoes, you
can prevent arriving soaked, a mud caked show dog, and shoes, too. It's up to you
how you want to arrive at the ring, and preparation and planning are the key to
starting your day successfully.
Ring side, some folks carry a chair and/or grooming table, tack box for those last
minute touch-ups, or wipe-downs, as I call it. A water bottle for you and your Pug,
and any additional weather appropriate equipment. These might include a battery
operated fan, cool matt, misting bottle, etc., whatever you need to keep your dog
and you comfortable and ready to go into the ring.
All this extra stuff, however helpful, is just along for the ride. The only thing you
need is that show lead, and the dog, of course!
Training your puppy for the ring is also required. When you first select your pup
you need to work especially hard to get them out and about to socialize them to
new situations, sights and sounds. I like to take mine to Home Depot or PetSmart.
Just know that at PetSmart they will be admired and you'll have to talk to people
who will ask you lots of questions. At Home Depot there is less attention paid to a
puppy in one of their larger and deeper carts. I take a pad along in either case to
keep them from getting a paw caught in the holes in the bottom of the carts.
Weather permitting, you can also walk them on the sidewalk in front of most
stores. This gets them leash training and socialization.
A handling class for conformation is usually offered by your local all breed dog
club. You can find the contacts for these organizations on the AKC web site. If
you contact the club's secretary for information they can tell you how to proceed.
Once or twice a week, for a month or two should be extremely helpful for both
the new exhibitor and/or a new show pup.
I start table training as soon as I can. I simply put the pup up on any flat surface
and get them used to it. In the kitchen, a piece of Rubbermaid shelf liner will
make the surface less slippery and give the pup more confidence. This is helpful if
you don't have a grooming table, but any surface will work. I've used a sturdy
coffee table, footstools, etc., and I just set the pup up in a stack, and if the pup
stands still for even 5 seconds, I give lots of praise.
Small pieces of cheese or chicken, liver, whatever you'd like to use for "bait" will
keep the pup's attention, but remember, it may not be the direction to go once
you're actually showing the dog. I started using bait in the ring, but have now
moved to using it as a lure to keep attention only, and only give it to the dog after
we've left the ring and the dog is not thinking about it. The reason, I want them
to focus on me, not the bait. I want them to not associate getting it as soon as we
leave the ring, so they don't try to bolt for the exit when we're going around past
it. I do give them some if they win, while we're waiting for the ribbon.
For a new exhibitor, bait is a two-edged sword in my opinion. You need to have
yourself trained and comfortable with using and moving the lead. This isn't always
easy, and having a piece of meat in your hand makes it harder. It is the reason to
learn how to use it sparingly, so you're only managing a small piece while in the
ring.
Show attire isn't something anyone talks about much, but it is important if you
want to be taken seriously. As a new exhibitor, you might want to check out the
Junior Handling competition. This is the part of an AKC Dog Show that involves
youngsters competing with each other on their handling skills. There will be a wide
spread on the skill level at the Novice level, but the Seniors should give you a
good idea of how the judges expect you to present your dog. Remember, in this
sport you're competing with professionals. If you expect to win, you need to
present yourself in a way that shows you're serious.
I've had the experience of attending a George Alston seminar and I can tell you
some of what I've learned over the years, but each person has to find their own
way of showing. Some are more at ease, some pick it up easier, but the bottom
line, you are there to present your dog to the judge in the best possible light.
That means you should be all but invisible to the judge. Nothing you do should
detract or distract the judge's vision of your dog. Why do people complain that
they lost to a professional handler? You hear it a lot among the owner handlers. If
they think they have a better dog, perhaps they should consider improving their
handling skills.
Handling involves more than taking the dog around the ring, putting it on the
table, and not making mistakes. It involves a lot of hard work from the training of
the dog and how it's groomed, to knowing how to show the dog in a manner that
brings out it's best qualities. It's about looking like you're making an effort, not
waiting for a bus, while you're waiting your turn on the table. It's about making
sure the dog isn't just on the end of the leash, but presenting the best picture
possible, each time the judge's eyes are on the dog.
Watching people in the ring I sometimes wonder what they're doing. They don't
even glance at the dog, and either stand there looking bored, or chat away with
those next to them, or even folks outside the ring. The dog isn't focused, why
would it be? The handler isn't focused, so why do they expect to win? Would a
participant in any other sport expect to win if they were not focused? Just an
observation.
Good manners, good sportsmanship, and good grooming never go out of style.
Practice all three, learn by observation, read up on the subject, talk to the
professionals and ask questions. Focus on the dog, keeping your eye on the judge,
and observe the ring pattern the judge is using BEFORE you go into the ring, so
you don't mess up and have to be corrected.
Make sure your dog is well groomed, in good condition, and properly trained. Keep
it fun, remember this is a sport, but it's also a hobby, so it should be fun, and the
dog will only want to participate if you make it fun instead of work. Don't take
yourself too seriously, it is JUST a dog show, not a conference on world hunger.
And, be prepared to lose more often than not. There are going to be winners, but
many more losers. Be a good loser and a gracious winner. It doesn't hurt to smile,
no matter who wins, and when you lose, consider smiling as practice for your
future win photos.
Keep your chin up and don't listen to those that try to ruin your confidence
before you walk into the ring. It's a tactic used by those that are afraid of losing.
Always remember, your dog is still your dog, and just because the judge liked
another one better, that doesn't mean he, or she, loves you any less!
moment they are born in hopes of finding “the one” that will go on to be that Best
In Show Winner, but the truth is they change so much, it is nearly impossible to
tell what you really have until they are at least 8 – 12 weeks old.
How I evaluate my pups is based upon the lines I’m working with. Other breeders
establish their own “rules” and my methods may not work for everyone, especially
if their Pugs are not related to mine. I have had enough litters that I can usually
tell my show prospects by around 10 -12 weeks of age.
The first thing I look for is size and shape of their heads. Width of underjaw,
bite, placement of nose, ears, and size of ears and eyes play an important role in
“who’s who in the zoo.”
If you are familiar with the Illustrated Standard on the Pug Dog Club of America’s
web site, the terms and traits I’ll be using will be much easier to understand. You
may want to go to that site and print off a copy for this discussion.
Second to head traits in my book are the body traits. It is probably second at
this point in my breeding program, because I feel Pugs are “a head breed” and as a
general type, show breeders seem to be getting away from the traditional Pug
head, much to my dismay. However, the Pug pup’s body is absolutely key to having
a good sound representative of the breed for showing and breeding.
I typically see nice bone and substance starting at six to eight weeks. At this
time I will see nice short backs, too, on most of my pups. So, heads are the first
thing I look at, starting at about 10 weeks of age.
How far apart are the eyes? Wide set large eyes, with little to no white around
the edges are important to me. I think our Pugs’s eyes are getting smaller all the
time, and away from the standard’s ideal. A good eye may be prone to eye
problems, if not completely correct, so this may be the reason, but a good eye can
be seen on my boy Cruiser, and even more correct as see on his son, Tyler.
Large, round, not protruding, soft in expression, expressive, and very dark brown.
Are the center of the eyes even with the top of the nose? Do the ears tips even
with the corner of the eyes? These are the things I watch for, along with any
noticeable problems with excessive tearing.
Head shape, should be as square as possible to me. This happens when there is a
nice width of underjaw, the look of a square, blocky head. Ears should be set high
enough there is no “dome” to the top. Wrinkles are nice at this age, but I don’t
expect them. Even the indication of where they will be is nice before 10 weeks,
and I’m looking for the start of wrinkles, and a nose roll that covers the “bee
sting” (bump above the nose) by 12 weeks.
Next would be the evaluation of the pup’s body. Bone is key in a show puppy. A pup
at 12 weeks should have nice bone for their body. It usually isn’t as much as they
had at 8 weeks, especially with the girls. Just don’t assume they will get more. It
can happen, and I’ve seen it, but I never assume it. Most of the girls do not, and
the majority of the boys, but anything is possible after sexual maturity.
Length of back and correct (level) toplines come next. Followed by correct lay of
shoulder, rib cage placement and tail set. Any of these can be a deal breaker for
me, and of course check those boys for their testicles, since it isn’t likely they
will descend properly after 12 – 16 weeks of age. Nothing is worse than having the
beautiful new show male pup suck one up into the abdominal cavity AFTER you’ve
started planning that boy’s show career.
Movement can now start to be evaluated. Watch how they move on a level surface
coming towards you, and away. Watch the side movement. After observing them
move naturally, teach the pup to walk and trot on a lead. Once the pup is
comfortable with the lead, have someone else watch the pup move, then have them
move the pup while you watch. What do you both see? Is the front clean or hack-
kneed? Do they move in a straight line, throw out a leg? Do they move cleanly in
the rear? How do they gait? How do the stack themselves? Anything other than a
clean natural mover and free stacker should be monitored closely and continuously
before you make your final decision.
Last, but for showing purposes not least, we come to the cosmetics of the pup. If
you want to win in the ring there will be some cosmetic traits you need to be
aware of, but things that you may want for your breeding program that are out of
style with the judges. Let’s face it, the lovely clear light coats are pretty, and the
double curl tail perfection, but what about pigment? Clear nails are no big deal to
some breeders, but in my opinion, just the beginning of other pigment problems.
You must decide what’s important to you, winning, or breeding, or both.
We each have a type in our mind’s eye that we breed to, that is within our
interpretation of the standard. The traits we have, what we want, what we
consider out of the question, what we don’t mind. All these decisions will make or
break us in the ring, and as breeders. Some can be changed or fixed quite easily,
others will take years to remedy. We must understand each trait, how it
contributes to the overall balance of the Pug, and what the alternatives are.
Example, you have a girl that needs some pigment on her toenails. You find a stud
dog that has black nails. What do you think the resulting litter will give you? How
important are the toenails when you consider the rest of the dog’s traits? Do you
know if the dog has light nails behind him? Do any of his siblings have them?
Research may or may not result in good solid information, so what are you willing
to risk?
In conclusion, I look for solid blocks, or chunks, with good balance and movement,
short backs, level toplines, heavy bone, large wide heads with wide eyes and
underjaws, good pigment, proper shoulder layback, correct rib placement, tails
held tight to the body (curls come later), and a energetic outgoing personality. I
wait till the pups are 12 weeks to decide who I’m placing as a pet (unless it’s
obvious before then), I keep my prospects a month or two longer to see how the
awkward “preteen stage” affects them, and I do my final evaluation at about six
months. If they aren’t looking good at six months, I’m not willing to spend the
money to put them in the ring. If I do, I give them until about two years of age,
and decide if I will show them, or with the girls, I may use them in my breeding
program, if I know their pedigree is one I can work with, and I know their faults
are mostly cosmetic.
I’ve spayed and neutered finished AKC champions that I never bred, and I’ve sold
as pets, all the pups from others. It’s not easy, but the key is to be
discriminating. Better to avoid problems with undesirable traits than spend
countless generations trying to eliminate them from you future litters.
Preparing To Show Your Pup
Now that you have that special pup, what's next? What equipment do you need to
get started with that special new pup? The right show lead is the most important
piece of equipment needed to show the dog. Second, is good grinder to keep
those toenails nice and short. Third, in my opinion, is a really good pair of thinning
shears. I would assume you already have a nice brush, even pets need a good
brushing on a regular basis, but I also like a nice metal flea type comb for
removing dead undercoat. You can also purchase a shedding tool, for a black Pug I
recommend a red handled stripping knife to clean out the dead undercoat that
makes those blacks look "burnt" or a reddish brown when the old undercoat "dies"
and needs to come out to restore the shine and nice black color your black pup
had at birth.
For fawns there is a tool called the "Fermanator" that works wonders once they
start to develop little "tufts" of lighter under coat that you can pull out, but
leaves a "hole" on the surface of the coat. The regular shedding out of the
undercoat happens at least once a year, and usually each dog will do it at the same
time every year. Females that have had a litter will also "blow coat" once she
starts weaning her pups.
Next, you need some kind of crate, unless you're only taking one Pug to the ring,
and you don't mind holding it (remember you are going in the ring and having all
the Pug hair on you nice clean clothes can be distracting to the judge, who was
probably a professional handler before they became a judge, so this isn't
something you want them to see) for several minutes during the down time
outside the ring. If you bring a crate, you'll probably want a crate dolly.
Of course no one starts off with all this equipment, but one dash to the ring from
the parking lot, carrying a dog to avoid mud puddles, in the pouring rain, and you'll
figure out it's easier to pull the dolly while your Prince, or Princess, rides safely
inside the dry crate. If you have a big coat with a hood (I live where it rains a lot),
or a grooming coat over your show clothes, a spare pair of comfortable shoes, you
can prevent arriving soaked, a mud caked show dog, and shoes, too. It's up to you
how you want to arrive at the ring, and preparation and planning are the key to
starting your day successfully.
Ring side, some folks carry a chair and/or grooming table, tack box for those last
minute touch-ups, or wipe-downs, as I call it. A water bottle for you and your Pug,
and any additional weather appropriate equipment. These might include a battery
operated fan, cool matt, misting bottle, etc., whatever you need to keep your dog
and you comfortable and ready to go into the ring.
All this extra stuff, however helpful, is just along for the ride. The only thing you
need is that show lead, and the dog, of course!
Training your puppy for the ring is also required. When you first select your pup
you need to work especially hard to get them out and about to socialize them to
new situations, sights and sounds. I like to take mine to Home Depot or PetSmart.
Just know that at PetSmart they will be admired and you'll have to talk to people
who will ask you lots of questions. At Home Depot there is less attention paid to a
puppy in one of their larger and deeper carts. I take a pad along in either case to
keep them from getting a paw caught in the holes in the bottom of the carts.
Weather permitting, you can also walk them on the sidewalk in front of most
stores. This gets them leash training and socialization.
A handling class for conformation is usually offered by your local all breed dog
club. You can find the contacts for these organizations on the AKC web site. If
you contact the club's secretary for information they can tell you how to proceed.
Once or twice a week, for a month or two should be extremely helpful for both
the new exhibitor and/or a new show pup.
I start table training as soon as I can. I simply put the pup up on any flat surface
and get them used to it. In the kitchen, a piece of Rubbermaid shelf liner will
make the surface less slippery and give the pup more confidence. This is helpful if
you don't have a grooming table, but any surface will work. I've used a sturdy
coffee table, footstools, etc., and I just set the pup up in a stack, and if the pup
stands still for even 5 seconds, I give lots of praise.
Small pieces of cheese or chicken, liver, whatever you'd like to use for "bait" will
keep the pup's attention, but remember, it may not be the direction to go once
you're actually showing the dog. I started using bait in the ring, but have now
moved to using it as a lure to keep attention only, and only give it to the dog after
we've left the ring and the dog is not thinking about it. The reason, I want them
to focus on me, not the bait. I want them to not associate getting it as soon as we
leave the ring, so they don't try to bolt for the exit when we're going around past
it. I do give them some if they win, while we're waiting for the ribbon.
For a new exhibitor, bait is a two-edged sword in my opinion. You need to have
yourself trained and comfortable with using and moving the lead. This isn't always
easy, and having a piece of meat in your hand makes it harder. It is the reason to
learn how to use it sparingly, so you're only managing a small piece while in the
ring.
Show attire isn't something anyone talks about much, but it is important if you
want to be taken seriously. As a new exhibitor, you might want to check out the
Junior Handling competition. This is the part of an AKC Dog Show that involves
youngsters competing with each other on their handling skills. There will be a wide
spread on the skill level at the Novice level, but the Seniors should give you a
good idea of how the judges expect you to present your dog. Remember, in this
sport you're competing with professionals. If you expect to win, you need to
present yourself in a way that shows you're serious.
I've had the experience of attending a George Alston seminar and I can tell you
some of what I've learned over the years, but each person has to find their own
way of showing. Some are more at ease, some pick it up easier, but the bottom
line, you are there to present your dog to the judge in the best possible light.
That means you should be all but invisible to the judge. Nothing you do should
detract or distract the judge's vision of your dog. Why do people complain that
they lost to a professional handler? You hear it a lot among the owner handlers. If
they think they have a better dog, perhaps they should consider improving their
handling skills.
Handling involves more than taking the dog around the ring, putting it on the
table, and not making mistakes. It involves a lot of hard work from the training of
the dog and how it's groomed, to knowing how to show the dog in a manner that
brings out it's best qualities. It's about looking like you're making an effort, not
waiting for a bus, while you're waiting your turn on the table. It's about making
sure the dog isn't just on the end of the leash, but presenting the best picture
possible, each time the judge's eyes are on the dog.
Watching people in the ring I sometimes wonder what they're doing. They don't
even glance at the dog, and either stand there looking bored, or chat away with
those next to them, or even folks outside the ring. The dog isn't focused, why
would it be? The handler isn't focused, so why do they expect to win? Would a
participant in any other sport expect to win if they were not focused? Just an
observation.
Good manners, good sportsmanship, and good grooming never go out of style.
Practice all three, learn by observation, read up on the subject, talk to the
professionals and ask questions. Focus on the dog, keeping your eye on the judge,
and observe the ring pattern the judge is using BEFORE you go into the ring, so
you don't mess up and have to be corrected.
Make sure your dog is well groomed, in good condition, and properly trained. Keep
it fun, remember this is a sport, but it's also a hobby, so it should be fun, and the
dog will only want to participate if you make it fun instead of work. Don't take
yourself too seriously, it is JUST a dog show, not a conference on world hunger.
And, be prepared to lose more often than not. There are going to be winners, but
many more losers. Be a good loser and a gracious winner. It doesn't hurt to smile,
no matter who wins, and when you lose, consider smiling as practice for your
future win photos.
Keep your chin up and don't listen to those that try to ruin your confidence
before you walk into the ring. It's a tactic used by those that are afraid of losing.
Always remember, your dog is still your dog, and just because the judge liked
another one better, that doesn't mean he, or she, loves you any less!
| Evaluating & Preparing to Show Your New Show Puppy |
Click to go to the Illustrated Pug Standard on the PDCA web site!