| Evaluating & Showing a Puppy By Sandra Morgan |
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moment they are born in hopes of finding “the one” that will go on to be that Best In
Show Winner, but the truth is they change so much, it is nearly impossible to tell
what you really have until they are at least 8 – 12 weeks old.
How I evaluate my pups is based upon the lines I’m working with. Other breeders
establish their own “rules” and my methods may not work for everyone, especially if
their Pugs are not related to mine. I have had enough litters that I can usually tell
my show prospects by around 10 -12 weeks of age.
The first thing I look for is size and shape of their heads. Width of underjaw, bite,
placement of nose, ears, and size of ears and eyes play an important role in “who’s
who in the zoo.”
If you are familiar with the Illustrated Standard on the Pug Dog Club of America’s
web site, the terms and traits I’ll be using will be much easier to understand. You
may want to go to that site and print off a copy for this discussion.
Second to head traits in my book are the body traits. It is probably second at this
point in my breeding program, because I feel Pugs are “a head breed” and as a
general type, show breeders seem to be getting away from the traditional Pug head,
much to my dismay. However, the Pug pup’s body is absolutely key to having a good
sound representative of the breed for showing and breeding.
I typically see nice bone and substance starting at six to eight weeks. At this time I
will see nice short backs, too, on most of my pups. So, heads are the first thing I
look at, starting at about 10 weeks of age.
How far apart are the eyes? Wide set large eyes, with little to no white around the
edges are important to me. I think our Pugs’s eyes are getting smaller all the time,
and away from the standard’s ideal. A good eye may be prone to eye problems, if not
completely correct, so this may be the reason, but a good eye can be seen on my boy
Tyler (see below). Large, round, not protruding, soft in expression, expressive, and
very dark brown.
Are the center of the eyes even with the top of the nose? Do the ears tips even with
the corner of the eyes? These are the things I watch for, along with any noticeable
problems with excessive tearing.
Head shape, should be as square as possible to me. This happens when there is a nice
width of underjaw, the look of a square, blocky head. Ears should be set high enough
there is no “dome” to the top. Wrinkles are nice at this age, but I don’t expect them.
Even the indication of where they will be is nice before 10 weeks, and I’m looking
for the start of wrinkles, and a nose roll that covers the “bee sting” (bump above the
nose) by 12 weeks.
Next would be the evaluation of the pup’s body. Bone is key in a show puppy. A pup
at 12 weeks should have nice bone for their body. It usually isn’t as much as they had
at 8 weeks, especially with the girls. Just don’t assume they will get more. It can
happen, and I’ve seen it, but I never assume it. Most of the girls do not, and the
majority of the boys, but anything is possible after sexual maturity.
Length of back and correct (level) toplines come next. Followed by correct lay of
shoulder, rib cage placement and tail set. Any of these can be a deal breaker for me,
and of course check those boys for their testicles, since it isn’t likely they will
descend properly after 12 – 16 weeks of age. Nothing is worse than having the
beautiful new show male pup suck one up into the abdominal cavity AFTER you’ve
started planning that boy’s show career.
Movement can now start to be evaluated. Watch how they move on a level surface
coming towards you, and away. Watch the side movement. After observing them move
naturally, teach the pup to walk and trot on a lead. Once the pup is comfortable with
the lead, have someone else watch the pup move, then have them move the pup while
you watch. What do you both see? Is the front clean or hack-kneed? Do they move in
a straight line, throw out a leg? Do they move cleanly in the rear? How do they gait?
How do the stack themselves? Anything other than a clean natural mover and free
stacker should be monitored closely and continuously before you make your final
decision.
Last, but for showing purposes not least, we come to the cosmetics of the pup. If you
want to win in the ring there will be some cosmetic traits you need to be aware of,
but things that you may want for your breeding program that are out of style with
the judges. Let’s face it, the lovely clear light coats are pretty, and the double curl
tail perfection, but what about pigment? Clear nails are no big deal to some
breeders, but in my opinion, just the beginning of other pigment problems. You must
decide what’s important to you, winning, or breeding, or both.
We each have a type in our mind’s eye that we breed to, that is within our
interpretation of the standard. The traits we have, what we want, what we consider
out of the question, what we don’t mind. All these decisions will make or break us in
the ring, and as breeders. Some can be changed or fixed quite easily, others will take
years to remedy. We must understand each trait, how it contributes to the overall
balance of the Pug, and what the alternatives are.
Example, you have a girl that needs some pigment on her toenails. You find a stud dog
that has black nails. What do you think the resulting litter will give you? How
important are the toenails when you consider the rest of the dog’s traits? Do you
know if the dog has light nails behind him? Do any of his siblings have them?
Research may or may not result in good solid information, so what are you willing to
risk?
In conclusion, I look for solid blocks, or chunks, with good balance and movement,
short backs, level toplines, heavy bone, large wide heads with wide eyes and
underjaws, good pigment, proper shoulder layback, correct rib placement, tails held
tight to the body (curls come later), and a energetic outgoing personality. I wait till
the pups are 12 weeks to decide who I’m placing as a pet (unless it’s obvious before
then), I keep my prospects a month or two longer to see how the awkward “preteen
stage” affects them, and I do my final evaluation at about six months. If they aren’t
looking good at six months, I’m not willing to spend the money to put them in the ring.
If I do, I give them until about two years of age, and decide if I will use them in my
breeding program. I’ve spayed and neutered finished AKC champions that I never
bred, and I’ve sold as pets, all the pups from others. It’s not easy, but the key is to
be discriminating. Better to avoid problems with undesirable traits than spend
countless generations trying to eliminate them from you future litters.
Preparing To Show Your Pup
Now that you have that special pup, what's next? What equipment do you need to get
started with that special new pup? The right show lead is the most important piece
of equipment needed to show the dog. Second, is good grinder to keep those toenails
nice and short. Third, in my opinion, is a really good pair of thinning shears. I would
assume you already have a nice brush, even pets need a good brushing on a regular
basis, but I also like a nice metal flea type comb for removing dead undercoat.
Next, you need some kind of crate, unless you're only taking one Pug to the ring, and
you don't mind hold it for several minutes during the down time outside the ring. If
you bring a crate, you'll probably want a crate dolly. Of course no one starts off
with all that, but one dash to the ring from the parking lot, carrying a dog to avoid
mud puddles, in the pouring rain, and you'll figure out it's easier to pull the dolly
while your Prince, or Princess, rides safely inside the dry plastic crate. If you have a
big coat with a hood (I live where it rains a lot), with a grooming coat over your show
clothes, can prevent arriving with a soaked, mud caked show dog, too, so it's up to
you how you want to arrive at the ring.
Ring side, some folks carry a chair and/or grooming table, tack box for those last
minute touch-ups, or wipe-downs, as I call it, water bottle for you and your Pug, and
any additional weather appropriate equipment. These might include a battery
operated fan, cool matt, etc., whatever you need to be comfortable and ready to
show your dog.
All this extra stuff, however helpful, is just along for the ride. The only thing you
need is that show lead, and the dog, of course!
Training your puppy for the ring is also required. When you first select your pup
you need to work especially hard to get them out and about to socialize them to new
situations, sights and sounds. I like to take mine to Home Depot or PetSmart. Just
know that at PetSmart they will be admired and you'll have to talk to people who will
ask you lots of questions. At Home Depot there is less attention paid to a puppy in
one of their larger and deeper carts. I take a pad along in either case to keep them
from getting a paw caught in the holes in the bottom of the carts. In warm weather,
you can also walk them on the sidewalk in front of most stores. This gets them leash
training and socialization.
A handling class for conformation is usually offered by your local all breed dog
club. You can find the contacts for these organizations on the AKC web site. If you
contact the club's secretary for information they can tell you how to proceed. Once
or twice a week, for a month or two should be extremely helpful for both the new
exhibitor and/or a new show pup.
I start table training as soon as I can. I simply put the pup up on any flat surface
and get them used to it. In the kitchen, a piece of Rubbermaid shelf liner will make
the surface less slippery and give the pup more confidence. This is helpful if you
don't have a grooming table, but any surface will work. I've used a sturdy coffee
table, footstools, etc., and I just set the pup up in a stack, and if the pup stands still
for even 5 seconds, I give lots of praise.
Small pieces of cheese or chicken, liver, whatever you'd like to use for "bait" will
keep the pup's attention, but remember, it may not be the direction to go once
you're actually showing the dog. I started using bait in the ring, but have now moved
to using it as a lure to keep attention only, and only give it to the dog after we've
left the ring and the dog is not thinking about it. The reason, I want them to focus on
me, not the bait. I want them to not associate getting it as soon as we leave the ring,
so they don't try to bolt for the exit when we're going around past it. I do give them
some if they win, while we're waiting for the ribbon.
For a new exhibitor, bait is a two-edged sword in my opinion. You need to have
yourself trained and comfortable with using and moving the lead. This isn't always
easy, and having a piece of meat in your hand makes it harder. It is the reason to
learn how to use it sparingly, so you're only managing a small piece while in the ring.
Show attire isn't something anyone talks about much, but it is important if you want
to be taken seriously. As a new exhibitor, you might want to check out the Junior
Handling competition. This is the part of an AKC Dog Show that involves youngsters
competing with each other on their handling skills. There will be a wide spread on the
skill level at the Novice level, but the Seniors should give you a good idea of how the
judges expect you to present your dog. Remember, in this sport you're competing
with professionals. If you expect to win, you need to present yourself in a way that
shows you're serious.
I've had the experience of attending a George Alston seminar and I can tell you some
of what I've learned over the years, but each person has to find their own way of
showing. Some are more at ease, some pick it up easier, but the bottom line, you are
there to present your dog to the judge in the best possible light. That means you
should be all but invisible to the judge. Nothing you do should detract or distract the
judge's vision of your dog. Why do people complain that they lost to a professional
handler? You hear it a lot among the owner handlers. If they think they have a
better dog, perhaps they should consider improving their handling skills.
Handling involves more than taking the dog around the ring, putting it on the table,
and not making mistakes. It involves a lot of hard work from the training of the dog
and how it's groomed, to knowing how to show the dog in a manner that brings out it's
best qualities. It's about looking like you're making an effort, not waiting for a bus,
while you're waiting your turn on the table. It's about making sure the dog isn't just
on the end of the leash, but presenting the best picture possible, each time the
judge's eyes are on the dog.
Watching people in the ring I sometimes wonder what they're there for. They don't
even glance at the dog, and either stand there looking bored, or chat away with those
next to them, or even folks outside the ring. The dog isn't focused, why would it be?
The handler isn't focused, so why do they expect to win? Would a participant in any
other sport expect to win if they were not focused? Just an observation.
Good manners, good sportsmanship, and good grooming never go out of style. Practice
all three, learn by observation, read up on the subject, talk to the professionals and
ask questions. Focus on the dog, keeping your eye on the judge, and observe the ring
pattern the judge is using BEFORE you go into the ring, so you don't mess up and
have to be corrected.
Make sure your dog is well groomed, in good condition, and properly trained. Keep it
fun, remember this is a sport, but it's also a hobby, so it should be fun, and the dog
will only want to participate if you make it fun instead of work. Don't take yourself
too seriously, it is JUST a dog show, not a conference on world hunger. And, be
prepared to lose more often than not. There are going to be winners, but many more
losers. Be a good loser and a gracious winner. It doesn't hurt to smile, no matter who
wins, and when you lose, consider smiling as practice for your future win photos.
Keep your chin up and don't listen to those that try to ruin your confidence before
you walk into the ring. It's a tactic used by those that are afraid of losing.
Always remember, your dog is still your dog, and just because the judge liked
another one better, that doesn't mean he, or she, loves you any less!
Show Winner, but the truth is they change so much, it is nearly impossible to tell
what you really have until they are at least 8 – 12 weeks old.
How I evaluate my pups is based upon the lines I’m working with. Other breeders
establish their own “rules” and my methods may not work for everyone, especially if
their Pugs are not related to mine. I have had enough litters that I can usually tell
my show prospects by around 10 -12 weeks of age.
The first thing I look for is size and shape of their heads. Width of underjaw, bite,
placement of nose, ears, and size of ears and eyes play an important role in “who’s
who in the zoo.”
If you are familiar with the Illustrated Standard on the Pug Dog Club of America’s
web site, the terms and traits I’ll be using will be much easier to understand. You
may want to go to that site and print off a copy for this discussion.
Second to head traits in my book are the body traits. It is probably second at this
point in my breeding program, because I feel Pugs are “a head breed” and as a
general type, show breeders seem to be getting away from the traditional Pug head,
much to my dismay. However, the Pug pup’s body is absolutely key to having a good
sound representative of the breed for showing and breeding.
I typically see nice bone and substance starting at six to eight weeks. At this time I
will see nice short backs, too, on most of my pups. So, heads are the first thing I
look at, starting at about 10 weeks of age.
How far apart are the eyes? Wide set large eyes, with little to no white around the
edges are important to me. I think our Pugs’s eyes are getting smaller all the time,
and away from the standard’s ideal. A good eye may be prone to eye problems, if not
completely correct, so this may be the reason, but a good eye can be seen on my boy
Tyler (see below). Large, round, not protruding, soft in expression, expressive, and
very dark brown.
Are the center of the eyes even with the top of the nose? Do the ears tips even with
the corner of the eyes? These are the things I watch for, along with any noticeable
problems with excessive tearing.
Head shape, should be as square as possible to me. This happens when there is a nice
width of underjaw, the look of a square, blocky head. Ears should be set high enough
there is no “dome” to the top. Wrinkles are nice at this age, but I don’t expect them.
Even the indication of where they will be is nice before 10 weeks, and I’m looking
for the start of wrinkles, and a nose roll that covers the “bee sting” (bump above the
nose) by 12 weeks.
Next would be the evaluation of the pup’s body. Bone is key in a show puppy. A pup
at 12 weeks should have nice bone for their body. It usually isn’t as much as they had
at 8 weeks, especially with the girls. Just don’t assume they will get more. It can
happen, and I’ve seen it, but I never assume it. Most of the girls do not, and the
majority of the boys, but anything is possible after sexual maturity.
Length of back and correct (level) toplines come next. Followed by correct lay of
shoulder, rib cage placement and tail set. Any of these can be a deal breaker for me,
and of course check those boys for their testicles, since it isn’t likely they will
descend properly after 12 – 16 weeks of age. Nothing is worse than having the
beautiful new show male pup suck one up into the abdominal cavity AFTER you’ve
started planning that boy’s show career.
Movement can now start to be evaluated. Watch how they move on a level surface
coming towards you, and away. Watch the side movement. After observing them move
naturally, teach the pup to walk and trot on a lead. Once the pup is comfortable with
the lead, have someone else watch the pup move, then have them move the pup while
you watch. What do you both see? Is the front clean or hack-kneed? Do they move in
a straight line, throw out a leg? Do they move cleanly in the rear? How do they gait?
How do the stack themselves? Anything other than a clean natural mover and free
stacker should be monitored closely and continuously before you make your final
decision.
Last, but for showing purposes not least, we come to the cosmetics of the pup. If you
want to win in the ring there will be some cosmetic traits you need to be aware of,
but things that you may want for your breeding program that are out of style with
the judges. Let’s face it, the lovely clear light coats are pretty, and the double curl
tail perfection, but what about pigment? Clear nails are no big deal to some
breeders, but in my opinion, just the beginning of other pigment problems. You must
decide what’s important to you, winning, or breeding, or both.
We each have a type in our mind’s eye that we breed to, that is within our
interpretation of the standard. The traits we have, what we want, what we consider
out of the question, what we don’t mind. All these decisions will make or break us in
the ring, and as breeders. Some can be changed or fixed quite easily, others will take
years to remedy. We must understand each trait, how it contributes to the overall
balance of the Pug, and what the alternatives are.
Example, you have a girl that needs some pigment on her toenails. You find a stud dog
that has black nails. What do you think the resulting litter will give you? How
important are the toenails when you consider the rest of the dog’s traits? Do you
know if the dog has light nails behind him? Do any of his siblings have them?
Research may or may not result in good solid information, so what are you willing to
risk?
In conclusion, I look for solid blocks, or chunks, with good balance and movement,
short backs, level toplines, heavy bone, large wide heads with wide eyes and
underjaws, good pigment, proper shoulder layback, correct rib placement, tails held
tight to the body (curls come later), and a energetic outgoing personality. I wait till
the pups are 12 weeks to decide who I’m placing as a pet (unless it’s obvious before
then), I keep my prospects a month or two longer to see how the awkward “preteen
stage” affects them, and I do my final evaluation at about six months. If they aren’t
looking good at six months, I’m not willing to spend the money to put them in the ring.
If I do, I give them until about two years of age, and decide if I will use them in my
breeding program. I’ve spayed and neutered finished AKC champions that I never
bred, and I’ve sold as pets, all the pups from others. It’s not easy, but the key is to
be discriminating. Better to avoid problems with undesirable traits than spend
countless generations trying to eliminate them from you future litters.
Preparing To Show Your Pup
Now that you have that special pup, what's next? What equipment do you need to get
started with that special new pup? The right show lead is the most important piece
of equipment needed to show the dog. Second, is good grinder to keep those toenails
nice and short. Third, in my opinion, is a really good pair of thinning shears. I would
assume you already have a nice brush, even pets need a good brushing on a regular
basis, but I also like a nice metal flea type comb for removing dead undercoat.
Next, you need some kind of crate, unless you're only taking one Pug to the ring, and
you don't mind hold it for several minutes during the down time outside the ring. If
you bring a crate, you'll probably want a crate dolly. Of course no one starts off
with all that, but one dash to the ring from the parking lot, carrying a dog to avoid
mud puddles, in the pouring rain, and you'll figure out it's easier to pull the dolly
while your Prince, or Princess, rides safely inside the dry plastic crate. If you have a
big coat with a hood (I live where it rains a lot), with a grooming coat over your show
clothes, can prevent arriving with a soaked, mud caked show dog, too, so it's up to
you how you want to arrive at the ring.
Ring side, some folks carry a chair and/or grooming table, tack box for those last
minute touch-ups, or wipe-downs, as I call it, water bottle for you and your Pug, and
any additional weather appropriate equipment. These might include a battery
operated fan, cool matt, etc., whatever you need to be comfortable and ready to
show your dog.
All this extra stuff, however helpful, is just along for the ride. The only thing you
need is that show lead, and the dog, of course!
Training your puppy for the ring is also required. When you first select your pup
you need to work especially hard to get them out and about to socialize them to new
situations, sights and sounds. I like to take mine to Home Depot or PetSmart. Just
know that at PetSmart they will be admired and you'll have to talk to people who will
ask you lots of questions. At Home Depot there is less attention paid to a puppy in
one of their larger and deeper carts. I take a pad along in either case to keep them
from getting a paw caught in the holes in the bottom of the carts. In warm weather,
you can also walk them on the sidewalk in front of most stores. This gets them leash
training and socialization.
A handling class for conformation is usually offered by your local all breed dog
club. You can find the contacts for these organizations on the AKC web site. If you
contact the club's secretary for information they can tell you how to proceed. Once
or twice a week, for a month or two should be extremely helpful for both the new
exhibitor and/or a new show pup.
I start table training as soon as I can. I simply put the pup up on any flat surface
and get them used to it. In the kitchen, a piece of Rubbermaid shelf liner will make
the surface less slippery and give the pup more confidence. This is helpful if you
don't have a grooming table, but any surface will work. I've used a sturdy coffee
table, footstools, etc., and I just set the pup up in a stack, and if the pup stands still
for even 5 seconds, I give lots of praise.
Small pieces of cheese or chicken, liver, whatever you'd like to use for "bait" will
keep the pup's attention, but remember, it may not be the direction to go once
you're actually showing the dog. I started using bait in the ring, but have now moved
to using it as a lure to keep attention only, and only give it to the dog after we've
left the ring and the dog is not thinking about it. The reason, I want them to focus on
me, not the bait. I want them to not associate getting it as soon as we leave the ring,
so they don't try to bolt for the exit when we're going around past it. I do give them
some if they win, while we're waiting for the ribbon.
For a new exhibitor, bait is a two-edged sword in my opinion. You need to have
yourself trained and comfortable with using and moving the lead. This isn't always
easy, and having a piece of meat in your hand makes it harder. It is the reason to
learn how to use it sparingly, so you're only managing a small piece while in the ring.
Show attire isn't something anyone talks about much, but it is important if you want
to be taken seriously. As a new exhibitor, you might want to check out the Junior
Handling competition. This is the part of an AKC Dog Show that involves youngsters
competing with each other on their handling skills. There will be a wide spread on the
skill level at the Novice level, but the Seniors should give you a good idea of how the
judges expect you to present your dog. Remember, in this sport you're competing
with professionals. If you expect to win, you need to present yourself in a way that
shows you're serious.
I've had the experience of attending a George Alston seminar and I can tell you some
of what I've learned over the years, but each person has to find their own way of
showing. Some are more at ease, some pick it up easier, but the bottom line, you are
there to present your dog to the judge in the best possible light. That means you
should be all but invisible to the judge. Nothing you do should detract or distract the
judge's vision of your dog. Why do people complain that they lost to a professional
handler? You hear it a lot among the owner handlers. If they think they have a
better dog, perhaps they should consider improving their handling skills.
Handling involves more than taking the dog around the ring, putting it on the table,
and not making mistakes. It involves a lot of hard work from the training of the dog
and how it's groomed, to knowing how to show the dog in a manner that brings out it's
best qualities. It's about looking like you're making an effort, not waiting for a bus,
while you're waiting your turn on the table. It's about making sure the dog isn't just
on the end of the leash, but presenting the best picture possible, each time the
judge's eyes are on the dog.
Watching people in the ring I sometimes wonder what they're there for. They don't
even glance at the dog, and either stand there looking bored, or chat away with those
next to them, or even folks outside the ring. The dog isn't focused, why would it be?
The handler isn't focused, so why do they expect to win? Would a participant in any
other sport expect to win if they were not focused? Just an observation.
Good manners, good sportsmanship, and good grooming never go out of style. Practice
all three, learn by observation, read up on the subject, talk to the professionals and
ask questions. Focus on the dog, keeping your eye on the judge, and observe the ring
pattern the judge is using BEFORE you go into the ring, so you don't mess up and
have to be corrected.
Make sure your dog is well groomed, in good condition, and properly trained. Keep it
fun, remember this is a sport, but it's also a hobby, so it should be fun, and the dog
will only want to participate if you make it fun instead of work. Don't take yourself
too seriously, it is JUST a dog show, not a conference on world hunger. And, be
prepared to lose more often than not. There are going to be winners, but many more
losers. Be a good loser and a gracious winner. It doesn't hurt to smile, no matter who
wins, and when you lose, consider smiling as practice for your future win photos.
Keep your chin up and don't listen to those that try to ruin your confidence before
you walk into the ring. It's a tactic used by those that are afraid of losing.
Always remember, your dog is still your dog, and just because the judge liked
another one better, that doesn't mean he, or she, loves you any less!
WindWalker Pugs
WindWalker Pugs is an AKC Registered Kennel Name.
