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Caring for the newborn pups is usually done by leaving the mom and "mother nature" to raise
the babies. That might work for some, but here we take the pro-active approach. Our
babies are not left unattended with their moms, until after they've become old enough to
regulate their body temperature (3 weeks of age) and are strong enough to get out from
under mom if she sits or lays on them. (A typical Pug mom behavior.)
Newborn canines need warmth, hydration, and nutrition to sustain life and grow up into
mature dogs.
Pug moms are for the most part a bit clueless as to what and how to do what's necessary for
their pups. Some will lay down and let them nurse, some will not step on or lay on them, some
will lick them and clean their bottoms (newborns cannot urinate or defecate on their own, so
must be stimulated to relieve themselves. If not, they will die), some will cuddle them and
keep track of each pup to ensure they're warm, but I've yet to meet a Pug girl that did it all.
If they don't, it becomes your responsibility to provide this much needed care, or resign
yourself to the pups dying from neglect.
Again, many books on the subject are available, and I can tell you most of them are adequate
for a normal healthy litter, but don't address the needs of a Pug breeder with a mom that's
clueless.
All the care in the world will not save a defective puppy, but if a healthy puppy becomes
chilled, or it doesn't get enough to drink from mom, it very quickly becomes a "sickly" pup.
These pups are typically pushed away by a mom, and were always thought to be "defective"
by breeders who gave their girls the intuitive ability to detect those unseen defects, not so.
Once chilled, a pup stops processing their food. The food in the gut of the pup starts to
ferment. This causes the pup to smell differently, and a pro-active dog mom will want it away
from her other pups that smell good to her. It has nothing to do with the ability to detect
internal defects.
Don't expect a Pug mom to be that intuitive, chilled or not, she probably will not worry about
any individual pup. She'll lay down, or just sit, to feed them, only because having full teats
gets uncomfortable, and she figures out quite fast those "smelly icky things" relieve that
discomfort. She may even take to cleaning bottoms, either before she lets them eat, or
after, and sometimes both, but she may not do an adequate job if left unobserved. You must
watch carefully to ensure each pup is going to the bathroom each time. If not, you can assist
the babies with a cotton ball, or cosmetic pad, soaked with some baby oil to avoid chaffing.
If you aren't watching the pups closely you can miss changes in their poop, which if not
corrected can lead to dehydration, or impacted intestines and puppy death. Every time the
puppies are fed, you should be there to observe and make sure all are full and "pot-tied"
afterwards. Also, you'll want to have a good kitchen scale on hand to weigh the pups at
birth and once a day to know they are getting enough to eat. Weight gain is an indication of a
healthy pup. Weight loss means things need to change immediately to save the pup's life.
To learn all about the ways you can save a puppy in trouble, check out the books and
products available by clicking on this link to my "Puppy Guru," Myra Savant-Harris' web site:
PUPPY PLACEMENT - Key to Success
The number of dogs and cats euthanized in the US is staggering! Many communities are
banning pet breeding altogether because of the over-population problem facing shelters. As
a responsible dog breeder, it is your job to make sure your precious pups NEVER end up on
death row, or worse, in the hands of someone that will abuse, or neglect them. You brought
them into the world, so you must step up to make sure this isn't their fate.
The best way to ensure this never happens to one of your pups is proper screening of
potential buyers. NEVER, sell your pups without knowing what kind of home they will go into.
Spend time getting to know your buyers, establish a relationship of caring, let them know if
they ever need to find a new home for their pup, you're willing to assist them. Be willing to
take back each pup, no matter what, and keep it until a new proper placement can be found.
Do not forget about them once the check clears! Keep in touch!!!
If you're going to be a breeder, consider being involved with Pug rescue in your community.
Be part of the solution, not part of the problem!!! If you're going to breed, be ready to lend
a hand to less fortunate Pugs from less responsible breeders, It's only right! If you can't
give your time, give financially. Donate a portion of the money from each pup sold to Pug
Rescue! Make a difference in the lives of Pugs in any way you can. You owe it to the breed.
Besides, fostering Pugs for rescue is a really great way to learn more about the breed. The
more you learn, the more you can contribute to making a difference. Provide as much
information to the general public as possible to teach them about responsible dog
ownership, and the needs of the Pugs in their care. It's the right thing to do, and the
rewards are tremendous!
STUD DOG OWNERSHIP
So far I've talked about the responsibilities of female Pug owners in the breeding process.
Sometimes I get email from folks with a boy, hoping to get me to use their dog as s stud on
one of my girls, or asking how to go about promoting their boy as a possible stud dog to the
Pug breeding community. So, I think something should be said on what the responsibilities
are for the stud owner.
Not every dog should sire a litter of pups. The Pug Standard applies to both males and
females, but the attributes for a stud dog are much more stringent that for a female Pug,
among those of us wanting to improve the breed. I've owned more than one champion male
that I never used as a stud dog, because I didn't like something about the dog, so wouldn't
risk passing on those traits to a litter of pups.
We all think our Pugs are beautiful, that they are even the very finest, but we have to be
realistic. Does the world need more Pugs that are not physically sound? The idea for those
of us dedicated to improving the breed is to improve upon each litter we produce, so that
each generation is better (closer to the standard and healthier) than the parents generation.
We can't do that if we don't understand the shortcomings of our dogs, particularly the
males we use for breeding. There is no perfect Pug, but we must be careful not to overlook
things that will ruin years of hard work.
Breeding is part science and part art; a whole lot of luck with some skill thrown in. Get more
than one opinion from more than one source before you use any dog for breeding. This is
why we show, to get the opinion of the judges that our dogs are worthy (close enough to the
standard, which is the ideal for the breed) of being used for breeding.
Remember, decisions you make will impact future generations. Think carefully and make
informed decisions you're willing to live with.
Providing your dog passes all his health tests and is worthy of being a sire, next you should
know what to expect when doing a breeding to someone else's girl. Most stud dog owners
have a Stud Contract. This spells out the terms and conditions which both parties agree to,
before the breeding takes place. If the owner doesn't have one, get one! You can agree
today, but tomorrow, one of you may remember the agreement in a different way. If you
have it in writing, there's no problem, you just look it up. You can always agree to change it
after the fact, but a good contract will save you so much grief later, they're worth their
weight in gold.
A contract won't prevent all problems, but they are a basis for a working agreement. Never
enter into anything without one. Like any other endeavor, there are unscrupulous folks
waiting to take advantage of an unsuspecting Pug lover.
Typical Stud dog owner responsibilities associated with breeding include the following:
~ Caring and feeding of the girl while she's there to be bred (This would include picking
her up at the airport if she's been flown in for the breeding)
~ Transporting her to the vet's for any required testing as many times as necessary
~ Providing the documentation for registering the litter (This can mean just signing the
litter registration application, or include sending the contract, DNA certification, etc.,
including a certified pedigree and proof of Brucellosis testing to the girl's owner)
~ Re-breeding for no additional money, if the girl doesn't get pregnant. (This includes
repeating all the above steps.)
~ Testing & possible treatment to ensure the dog has an adequate sperm count to be a stud
dog
If shipped semen is requested, more is involved, but for our purposes here, I'll leave that
alone.
IN CLOSING
Breeding can be a rewarding experience. It can also be emotionally devastating when things
go wrong, and even for the best planned litter, and the most experienced breeder, things do
go wrong. It's a lot of work, financially draining, and there's the life-long responsibility of
bringing those innocent beings into the world. If you think you can handle all it entails, good
luck to you!
FYI
Here is a breakdown of some of the litters I've had using my own stud dogs, including the
expenses involved:
Girl A bred to Boy A - Two live pups
~Total direct cost of the litter = $4,000
~Total income = $0 (kept both)
Girl AA bred to Boy B - Three live pups
~Total direct cost of the litter = $4,200
~Total income = $2,200 (all 3 sold as pets)
Girl B bred to Boy C - Two live pups
~Total direct cost of the litter = $3,600
~Total income = $1,400 (both sold as pets)
Girl C bred to Boy AA - Six live pups
~Total direct cost of litter = $1,200
~Total income = $0 (Kept 2, co-breeder 1, friends who helped me, got 3 of them)
Girl D bred to Boy D - Four live pups
~Total direct cost of litter = $800
~Total income = $500(1 sold as a pet, 1 to co-breeder, kept 2)
Girl E bred to Boy E - No live pups
~Total direct veterinary costs = $850
Girl E bred to Boy E - No live pups
~Total direct veterinary costs = $1,300 (surgical implant)
As you can see, I've got some serious expenses, but not much income!
Breeding is not a money making opportunity unless you're willing to forego the vet care. If I
added in an amount for my time involved the cost would skyrocket! Then there's the
expense of providing the equipment and supplies, and the expense of using someone else's
stud dog. Don't forget you have to hire a competent person to care for them when you have
to go to work. You can see it adds up quickly.
Being a breeder means putting the Pugs first, before your social life, before family
sometimes, and surely before yourself. If you think you're still interested and willing to do
what it takes to be a responsible breeder, no matter the cost. Remember, learn as much as
possible FIRST!
~Sandra
the babies. That might work for some, but here we take the pro-active approach. Our
babies are not left unattended with their moms, until after they've become old enough to
regulate their body temperature (3 weeks of age) and are strong enough to get out from
under mom if she sits or lays on them. (A typical Pug mom behavior.)
Newborn canines need warmth, hydration, and nutrition to sustain life and grow up into
mature dogs.
Pug moms are for the most part a bit clueless as to what and how to do what's necessary for
their pups. Some will lay down and let them nurse, some will not step on or lay on them, some
will lick them and clean their bottoms (newborns cannot urinate or defecate on their own, so
must be stimulated to relieve themselves. If not, they will die), some will cuddle them and
keep track of each pup to ensure they're warm, but I've yet to meet a Pug girl that did it all.
If they don't, it becomes your responsibility to provide this much needed care, or resign
yourself to the pups dying from neglect.
Again, many books on the subject are available, and I can tell you most of them are adequate
for a normal healthy litter, but don't address the needs of a Pug breeder with a mom that's
clueless.
All the care in the world will not save a defective puppy, but if a healthy puppy becomes
chilled, or it doesn't get enough to drink from mom, it very quickly becomes a "sickly" pup.
These pups are typically pushed away by a mom, and were always thought to be "defective"
by breeders who gave their girls the intuitive ability to detect those unseen defects, not so.
Once chilled, a pup stops processing their food. The food in the gut of the pup starts to
ferment. This causes the pup to smell differently, and a pro-active dog mom will want it away
from her other pups that smell good to her. It has nothing to do with the ability to detect
internal defects.
Don't expect a Pug mom to be that intuitive, chilled or not, she probably will not worry about
any individual pup. She'll lay down, or just sit, to feed them, only because having full teats
gets uncomfortable, and she figures out quite fast those "smelly icky things" relieve that
discomfort. She may even take to cleaning bottoms, either before she lets them eat, or
after, and sometimes both, but she may not do an adequate job if left unobserved. You must
watch carefully to ensure each pup is going to the bathroom each time. If not, you can assist
the babies with a cotton ball, or cosmetic pad, soaked with some baby oil to avoid chaffing.
If you aren't watching the pups closely you can miss changes in their poop, which if not
corrected can lead to dehydration, or impacted intestines and puppy death. Every time the
puppies are fed, you should be there to observe and make sure all are full and "pot-tied"
afterwards. Also, you'll want to have a good kitchen scale on hand to weigh the pups at
birth and once a day to know they are getting enough to eat. Weight gain is an indication of a
healthy pup. Weight loss means things need to change immediately to save the pup's life.
To learn all about the ways you can save a puppy in trouble, check out the books and
products available by clicking on this link to my "Puppy Guru," Myra Savant-Harris' web site:
PUPPY PLACEMENT - Key to Success
The number of dogs and cats euthanized in the US is staggering! Many communities are
banning pet breeding altogether because of the over-population problem facing shelters. As
a responsible dog breeder, it is your job to make sure your precious pups NEVER end up on
death row, or worse, in the hands of someone that will abuse, or neglect them. You brought
them into the world, so you must step up to make sure this isn't their fate.
The best way to ensure this never happens to one of your pups is proper screening of
potential buyers. NEVER, sell your pups without knowing what kind of home they will go into.
Spend time getting to know your buyers, establish a relationship of caring, let them know if
they ever need to find a new home for their pup, you're willing to assist them. Be willing to
take back each pup, no matter what, and keep it until a new proper placement can be found.
Do not forget about them once the check clears! Keep in touch!!!
If you're going to be a breeder, consider being involved with Pug rescue in your community.
Be part of the solution, not part of the problem!!! If you're going to breed, be ready to lend
a hand to less fortunate Pugs from less responsible breeders, It's only right! If you can't
give your time, give financially. Donate a portion of the money from each pup sold to Pug
Rescue! Make a difference in the lives of Pugs in any way you can. You owe it to the breed.
Besides, fostering Pugs for rescue is a really great way to learn more about the breed. The
more you learn, the more you can contribute to making a difference. Provide as much
information to the general public as possible to teach them about responsible dog
ownership, and the needs of the Pugs in their care. It's the right thing to do, and the
rewards are tremendous!
STUD DOG OWNERSHIP
So far I've talked about the responsibilities of female Pug owners in the breeding process.
Sometimes I get email from folks with a boy, hoping to get me to use their dog as s stud on
one of my girls, or asking how to go about promoting their boy as a possible stud dog to the
Pug breeding community. So, I think something should be said on what the responsibilities
are for the stud owner.
Not every dog should sire a litter of pups. The Pug Standard applies to both males and
females, but the attributes for a stud dog are much more stringent that for a female Pug,
among those of us wanting to improve the breed. I've owned more than one champion male
that I never used as a stud dog, because I didn't like something about the dog, so wouldn't
risk passing on those traits to a litter of pups.
We all think our Pugs are beautiful, that they are even the very finest, but we have to be
realistic. Does the world need more Pugs that are not physically sound? The idea for those
of us dedicated to improving the breed is to improve upon each litter we produce, so that
each generation is better (closer to the standard and healthier) than the parents generation.
We can't do that if we don't understand the shortcomings of our dogs, particularly the
males we use for breeding. There is no perfect Pug, but we must be careful not to overlook
things that will ruin years of hard work.
Breeding is part science and part art; a whole lot of luck with some skill thrown in. Get more
than one opinion from more than one source before you use any dog for breeding. This is
why we show, to get the opinion of the judges that our dogs are worthy (close enough to the
standard, which is the ideal for the breed) of being used for breeding.
Remember, decisions you make will impact future generations. Think carefully and make
informed decisions you're willing to live with.
Providing your dog passes all his health tests and is worthy of being a sire, next you should
know what to expect when doing a breeding to someone else's girl. Most stud dog owners
have a Stud Contract. This spells out the terms and conditions which both parties agree to,
before the breeding takes place. If the owner doesn't have one, get one! You can agree
today, but tomorrow, one of you may remember the agreement in a different way. If you
have it in writing, there's no problem, you just look it up. You can always agree to change it
after the fact, but a good contract will save you so much grief later, they're worth their
weight in gold.
A contract won't prevent all problems, but they are a basis for a working agreement. Never
enter into anything without one. Like any other endeavor, there are unscrupulous folks
waiting to take advantage of an unsuspecting Pug lover.
Typical Stud dog owner responsibilities associated with breeding include the following:
~ Caring and feeding of the girl while she's there to be bred (This would include picking
her up at the airport if she's been flown in for the breeding)
~ Transporting her to the vet's for any required testing as many times as necessary
~ Providing the documentation for registering the litter (This can mean just signing the
litter registration application, or include sending the contract, DNA certification, etc.,
including a certified pedigree and proof of Brucellosis testing to the girl's owner)
~ Re-breeding for no additional money, if the girl doesn't get pregnant. (This includes
repeating all the above steps.)
~ Testing & possible treatment to ensure the dog has an adequate sperm count to be a stud
dog
If shipped semen is requested, more is involved, but for our purposes here, I'll leave that
alone.
IN CLOSING
Breeding can be a rewarding experience. It can also be emotionally devastating when things
go wrong, and even for the best planned litter, and the most experienced breeder, things do
go wrong. It's a lot of work, financially draining, and there's the life-long responsibility of
bringing those innocent beings into the world. If you think you can handle all it entails, good
luck to you!
FYI
Here is a breakdown of some of the litters I've had using my own stud dogs, including the
expenses involved:
Girl A bred to Boy A - Two live pups
~Total direct cost of the litter = $4,000
~Total income = $0 (kept both)
Girl AA bred to Boy B - Three live pups
~Total direct cost of the litter = $4,200
~Total income = $2,200 (all 3 sold as pets)
Girl B bred to Boy C - Two live pups
~Total direct cost of the litter = $3,600
~Total income = $1,400 (both sold as pets)
Girl C bred to Boy AA - Six live pups
~Total direct cost of litter = $1,200
~Total income = $0 (Kept 2, co-breeder 1, friends who helped me, got 3 of them)
Girl D bred to Boy D - Four live pups
~Total direct cost of litter = $800
~Total income = $500(1 sold as a pet, 1 to co-breeder, kept 2)
Girl E bred to Boy E - No live pups
~Total direct veterinary costs = $850
Girl E bred to Boy E - No live pups
~Total direct veterinary costs = $1,300 (surgical implant)
As you can see, I've got some serious expenses, but not much income!
Breeding is not a money making opportunity unless you're willing to forego the vet care. If I
added in an amount for my time involved the cost would skyrocket! Then there's the
expense of providing the equipment and supplies, and the expense of using someone else's
stud dog. Don't forget you have to hire a competent person to care for them when you have
to go to work. You can see it adds up quickly.
Being a breeder means putting the Pugs first, before your social life, before family
sometimes, and surely before yourself. If you think you're still interested and willing to do
what it takes to be a responsible breeder, no matter the cost. Remember, learn as much as
possible FIRST!
~Sandra
So, you think you want to breed your female Pug and perhaps make a few extra dollars for
that vacation you'd like to afford.
Sounds reasonable, right? WRONG!!! Take it from someone who's been breeding Pugs for
over ten years, there is no way to make money breeding Pugs, at least not if you intend to be
a responsible breeder.
Although Pug girls are usually sweet and loving, and seem like they would be great moms, the
truth is they typically are not good mothers. Let's look at what a good canine mother means
. . . A good canine mother is one that can whelp and care for her pups, wean them at the
appropriate time, and teach them proper canine behaviors so they will know their place in
the "pack" or the social structure of canines.
These abilities are all very important to the pups, and to you, the owner, because if you
want happy, healthy babies, who are not going to have social issues with other dogs, the
puppies will need help. If their own mother doesn't provide all the necessary care & skills
to do a proper job of caring for and raising them, it's YOUR responsibility to step-up and
do it.
What does that mean to you? It means that you must be the one that helps her do a good
job. Not too worried yet? Sounds easy enough. What's the problem?
PLEASE READ Our DISCLAIMER!!!
PUG BREEDING 101
First, most Pug moms are totally clueless when it comes to labor, delivery & newborn care.
Most are also unwilling to spend time caring for their pups, if it means time away from you,
the center of their universe.
Here's what you must be prepared to do for your girl's babies before, during and after
birth. Puppies are sweet, innocent, and adorable, but they require a tremendous amount of
care, and unless you have a super Pug mom, YOU will be the their primary caregiver! I'd
put a cute picture here, but we all know they're cute. I won't scare you with some of the
specific problems I've had to deal with, but read on to get a general idea of what it's all
about.
that vacation you'd like to afford.
Sounds reasonable, right? WRONG!!! Take it from someone who's been breeding Pugs for
over ten years, there is no way to make money breeding Pugs, at least not if you intend to be
a responsible breeder.
Although Pug girls are usually sweet and loving, and seem like they would be great moms, the
truth is they typically are not good mothers. Let's look at what a good canine mother means
. . . A good canine mother is one that can whelp and care for her pups, wean them at the
appropriate time, and teach them proper canine behaviors so they will know their place in
the "pack" or the social structure of canines.
These abilities are all very important to the pups, and to you, the owner, because if you
want happy, healthy babies, who are not going to have social issues with other dogs, the
puppies will need help. If their own mother doesn't provide all the necessary care & skills
to do a proper job of caring for and raising them, it's YOUR responsibility to step-up and
do it.
What does that mean to you? It means that you must be the one that helps her do a good
job. Not too worried yet? Sounds easy enough. What's the problem?
PLEASE READ Our DISCLAIMER!!!
PUG BREEDING 101
First, most Pug moms are totally clueless when it comes to labor, delivery & newborn care.
Most are also unwilling to spend time caring for their pups, if it means time away from you,
the center of their universe.
Here's what you must be prepared to do for your girl's babies before, during and after
birth. Puppies are sweet, innocent, and adorable, but they require a tremendous amount of
care, and unless you have a super Pug mom, YOU will be the their primary caregiver! I'd
put a cute picture here, but we all know they're cute. I won't scare you with some of the
specific problems I've had to deal with, but read on to get a general idea of what it's all
about.
About Breeding Pugs!
BEFORE The Miracle of Birth HAPPENS
OK, so you've decided to become a Pug breeder, and you'd like to be responsible, what
should you be doing to prepare for the big event?
Do you have a male Pug that has not been neutered, or do you need to find one that belongs
to someone else? If you find a male Pug that has not been neutered, do you like the way he
looks? Is he healthy? What Pug/dog genes and/or characteristics will he contribute to your
girl's genes to make their puppies? Does he carry any genes that will combine with hers that
although not dominant in either parent, would be in the genetic makeup of the pups, that
would adversely affect the quality of life the pups will have? How do you know for sure? If
you sell a puppy and it develops a life-altering genetic condition, what would you feel your
responsibility would be to the puppy buyers, and/or the pup? Would you be willing to take
the Pug back and return their money? Would you just give them their money back? Or, would
you even want to hear from them in a year or two, and be expected to do anything?
These are all relevant questions, considering the number of cases of litigation clogging our
courts. You must have a policy in place and provided to the buyers listing your
responsibilities and theirs if a health issue develops in the pups to protect yourself and
finances for the life of any pups you sell. In some states there are puppy lemon laws which
you should become familiar with as well. Talk to a lawyer familiar with the pet laws in your
state to be safe from legal issues BEFORE you proceed.
Back to finding that male Pug . . . Unless you're working with an established show
breeder, any available male that is unaltered (not neutered), will likely be someone's pet.
AKC registration is not a guarantee of quality, it only means the parents of the Pug were
registered with AKC as Pugs. (They're a big database of pedigrees.) If you want to breed
Pugs that look like and behave like PUGS, you can find the Pug standard on the Pug Dog Club
of America's web site, as well as pictures to compare what is correct in Pug structure and
what is not. Study the Pug Standard and start comparing your Pug and others you see to it
so you can see what to look for in your search for the right male to be the sire of your
puppies.
Once you find a male you like, ask the owners some basic questions to find out if they're
willing to let their male breed. Not everyone wants a male dog that will develop an interest in
"humping" as a house pet, so although a male hasn't been neutered, and even if the owners
are flattered, they may not want their boy learning about S-E-X. Such an experience can
change the basic nature of their once docile little Pug boy, and turn him into a raging sex
addict. Such behaviors are not usually something the average pet owner wants to deal with,
and who can blame them?
So, where do you find a quality stud dog? Well, I have to recommend a show breeder.
Not because we're all looking to have pet owners use our champion males as stud dogs, that
is NOT what I mean to imply. But, we are the source of good information, and we also know
we cannot supply all the Pug puppies sold as pets. We are not the elitist snobs some folks
think we are, but we want to protect and preserve the breed we love. This is the foundation
of the philosophy behind every responsible breeder. Find a show breeder, who's
accountable to follow a code of ethics, to mentor you and teach you how to be a responsible
Pug breeder!
That said, we need to talk about your girl. You should know that the best reproduction vets
(vets that specialize in canine reproduction) will tell you there are some breeding
fundamentals, similar to human reproduction, you should follow to ensure the health of your
puppies. Foremost, you need to make sure your girl is free from any health issues, BEFORE
she is bred. Talk to your regular vet about the tests he/she can do on your Pug to rule out
the issues affecting the breed. These tests are going to cost you, but better now than after
you have a litter of puppies with a severe debilitating health problem that will require you to
make a decision about expensive surgeries, or euthanasia. Yes, I did mean you might have to
decide to mortgage the kids or put the puppies to sleep. This isn't something I'm saying to
scare you, I just want you to know it can happen.
Don't have a clue, so an vet must "collect" the semen (yes, that does mean what you think it
means), and don't have a clue, so an vet must "collect" the semen (yes, that does mean what
you think it means), and then do an artificial insemination to impregnate your girl. Before
that, or a natural breeding happens, be sure to take her in for an examination as soon as she
comes into season, to rule out any infections she may have in her reproductive track that
could affect her pregnancy and/or the development of the pups. Blood tests should also be
done on both dogs to check for brucellosis, a canine STD, which is extremely dangerous to
dogs and people. Dogs that have this should never be bred, and in most cases they must be
put to sleep before they spread the virus via their bodily fluids to other dogs and possibly
people.
If the dogs check out, you can proceed with the breeding, either naturally, if both
cooperate, or by artificial insemination, if your vet will assist you. You should know that most
general practice vets to not support the breeding of dogs. If you do not have a supportive
vet, you must find either a reproduction specialist vet, or a breeder willing to assist with
the A.I., if a natural breeding is not happening.
If you use an established stud dog, the breeding is usually the responsibility of the stud dog
owner, as part of the stud fee, and any veterinary assistance will be extra, and must be paid
up front before the breeding takes place. Some breeders require an AI, since it is safer
for their stud dogs, and they may request that your girl be tested for her ovulation (the
timing of the release of the eggs from the ovaries). Ovulation testing is done by a blood
test, and it can take several to pin-point the correct timing for the breeding.
These tests can be expensive, costing $35 - $130 each, and several can be needed. Once
ovulation occurs, the eggs must become ready for fertilization. In canines, they are not
ready when the egg is released, but at approx. 48 hours afterwards. The due date of the
pups is calculated by the day ovulation occurs, unless no testing was done. If ovulation is not
known, the breeding is done based upon the best guess of the person handling the breeding,
and the timing of the experienced stud dog. If the dog is inexperienced, or inept (Pug boys
are not the most savvy), a breeder must rely on other signs the timing is correct. Missing
the fertile period for the eggs is always possible, but more likely without the testing. When
no pregnancy results, the owner of the girl is forced to make some decisions about the
future plans for their girl's next season. Females are only able to conceive when their eggs
are fertilized during the critical time they are "ripe" which last only a few hours per season,
and Pug girls only have one season every 6 to 11 months.
If you own both a male and a female, some of these problems are overcome, but your boy
might need some help figuring out exactly what to do to get the job done. If he's a "natural"
leaving them together will often result in pups, but you won't know when to expect them.
This can be a BIG problem, because Pug mom's typically do not do well delivering their pups.
WHELPING (Delivery of the Puppies)
OK, so now you know your girl is pregnant. Pretty exciting, but scary if you're not an
experienced breeder. If you've never had a litter of Pugs you're probably thinking, "Scary!"
Pugs are pretty easy to get pregnant, and some are terrific moms, but that's the exception,
NOT the rule!!! You must be prepared to do it all, including opening the sacks when they're
born, cutting the cords, and even holding your mom still long enough so her pups can nurse.
You MUST be prepared and ready to step in and assist, or be willing to allow the babies to
die. This is the part no one has told you about. It's not easy being a breeder. If you're not
emotionally prepared to live with the consequences of losing mom and/or her babies, DO
NOT BREED your girl!!!
Hopefully, if you've read this far, you're dedicated to doing all you can to ensure the health
of mom and pups. So, how do you prepare for an upcoming Pug litter? DO NOT, under any
circumstances, breed your girl, unless you're prepared to spend 24 x 7 with her from one
week before her due date, until her babies are three weeks old! If you leave her
unattended, you can return to find dead pups. Newborns will still be in their sacks. Puppies
will either get chilled, dehydrated, or mom will lay on and suffocate them. Not on purpose,
but because she doesn't quite know what to make of these strange alien creatures. I've only
had one puppy in over ten years, that mom delivered and got going (opened the sack and got
it breathing) without my help.
Find a breeder/mentor to teach you all the things you may need to know. I can try to
describe it all, but there's no way I can teach you on paper (or a web site) what you might
have to do, unless you're at least familiar with the birth process. I can provide pictures
and/or video, but there's nothing like hands-on experience to give you the best instruction.
Find a mentor! Ask to assist at an upcoming whelping. It could mean the difference in saving
the life of a future puppy of your own, if you can watch and learn!
OK, so you've decided to become a Pug breeder, and you'd like to be responsible, what
should you be doing to prepare for the big event?
Do you have a male Pug that has not been neutered, or do you need to find one that belongs
to someone else? If you find a male Pug that has not been neutered, do you like the way he
looks? Is he healthy? What Pug/dog genes and/or characteristics will he contribute to your
girl's genes to make their puppies? Does he carry any genes that will combine with hers that
although not dominant in either parent, would be in the genetic makeup of the pups, that
would adversely affect the quality of life the pups will have? How do you know for sure? If
you sell a puppy and it develops a life-altering genetic condition, what would you feel your
responsibility would be to the puppy buyers, and/or the pup? Would you be willing to take
the Pug back and return their money? Would you just give them their money back? Or, would
you even want to hear from them in a year or two, and be expected to do anything?
These are all relevant questions, considering the number of cases of litigation clogging our
courts. You must have a policy in place and provided to the buyers listing your
responsibilities and theirs if a health issue develops in the pups to protect yourself and
finances for the life of any pups you sell. In some states there are puppy lemon laws which
you should become familiar with as well. Talk to a lawyer familiar with the pet laws in your
state to be safe from legal issues BEFORE you proceed.
Back to finding that male Pug . . . Unless you're working with an established show
breeder, any available male that is unaltered (not neutered), will likely be someone's pet.
AKC registration is not a guarantee of quality, it only means the parents of the Pug were
registered with AKC as Pugs. (They're a big database of pedigrees.) If you want to breed
Pugs that look like and behave like PUGS, you can find the Pug standard on the Pug Dog Club
of America's web site, as well as pictures to compare what is correct in Pug structure and
what is not. Study the Pug Standard and start comparing your Pug and others you see to it
so you can see what to look for in your search for the right male to be the sire of your
puppies.
Once you find a male you like, ask the owners some basic questions to find out if they're
willing to let their male breed. Not everyone wants a male dog that will develop an interest in
"humping" as a house pet, so although a male hasn't been neutered, and even if the owners
are flattered, they may not want their boy learning about S-E-X. Such an experience can
change the basic nature of their once docile little Pug boy, and turn him into a raging sex
addict. Such behaviors are not usually something the average pet owner wants to deal with,
and who can blame them?
So, where do you find a quality stud dog? Well, I have to recommend a show breeder.
Not because we're all looking to have pet owners use our champion males as stud dogs, that
is NOT what I mean to imply. But, we are the source of good information, and we also know
we cannot supply all the Pug puppies sold as pets. We are not the elitist snobs some folks
think we are, but we want to protect and preserve the breed we love. This is the foundation
of the philosophy behind every responsible breeder. Find a show breeder, who's
accountable to follow a code of ethics, to mentor you and teach you how to be a responsible
Pug breeder!
That said, we need to talk about your girl. You should know that the best reproduction vets
(vets that specialize in canine reproduction) will tell you there are some breeding
fundamentals, similar to human reproduction, you should follow to ensure the health of your
puppies. Foremost, you need to make sure your girl is free from any health issues, BEFORE
she is bred. Talk to your regular vet about the tests he/she can do on your Pug to rule out
the issues affecting the breed. These tests are going to cost you, but better now than after
you have a litter of puppies with a severe debilitating health problem that will require you to
make a decision about expensive surgeries, or euthanasia. Yes, I did mean you might have to
decide to mortgage the kids or put the puppies to sleep. This isn't something I'm saying to
scare you, I just want you to know it can happen.
Don't have a clue, so an vet must "collect" the semen (yes, that does mean what you think it
means), and don't have a clue, so an vet must "collect" the semen (yes, that does mean what
you think it means), and then do an artificial insemination to impregnate your girl. Before
that, or a natural breeding happens, be sure to take her in for an examination as soon as she
comes into season, to rule out any infections she may have in her reproductive track that
could affect her pregnancy and/or the development of the pups. Blood tests should also be
done on both dogs to check for brucellosis, a canine STD, which is extremely dangerous to
dogs and people. Dogs that have this should never be bred, and in most cases they must be
put to sleep before they spread the virus via their bodily fluids to other dogs and possibly
people.
If the dogs check out, you can proceed with the breeding, either naturally, if both
cooperate, or by artificial insemination, if your vet will assist you. You should know that most
general practice vets to not support the breeding of dogs. If you do not have a supportive
vet, you must find either a reproduction specialist vet, or a breeder willing to assist with
the A.I., if a natural breeding is not happening.
If you use an established stud dog, the breeding is usually the responsibility of the stud dog
owner, as part of the stud fee, and any veterinary assistance will be extra, and must be paid
up front before the breeding takes place. Some breeders require an AI, since it is safer
for their stud dogs, and they may request that your girl be tested for her ovulation (the
timing of the release of the eggs from the ovaries). Ovulation testing is done by a blood
test, and it can take several to pin-point the correct timing for the breeding.
These tests can be expensive, costing $35 - $130 each, and several can be needed. Once
ovulation occurs, the eggs must become ready for fertilization. In canines, they are not
ready when the egg is released, but at approx. 48 hours afterwards. The due date of the
pups is calculated by the day ovulation occurs, unless no testing was done. If ovulation is not
known, the breeding is done based upon the best guess of the person handling the breeding,
and the timing of the experienced stud dog. If the dog is inexperienced, or inept (Pug boys
are not the most savvy), a breeder must rely on other signs the timing is correct. Missing
the fertile period for the eggs is always possible, but more likely without the testing. When
no pregnancy results, the owner of the girl is forced to make some decisions about the
future plans for their girl's next season. Females are only able to conceive when their eggs
are fertilized during the critical time they are "ripe" which last only a few hours per season,
and Pug girls only have one season every 6 to 11 months.
If you own both a male and a female, some of these problems are overcome, but your boy
might need some help figuring out exactly what to do to get the job done. If he's a "natural"
leaving them together will often result in pups, but you won't know when to expect them.
This can be a BIG problem, because Pug mom's typically do not do well delivering their pups.
WHELPING (Delivery of the Puppies)
OK, so now you know your girl is pregnant. Pretty exciting, but scary if you're not an
experienced breeder. If you've never had a litter of Pugs you're probably thinking, "Scary!"
Pugs are pretty easy to get pregnant, and some are terrific moms, but that's the exception,
NOT the rule!!! You must be prepared to do it all, including opening the sacks when they're
born, cutting the cords, and even holding your mom still long enough so her pups can nurse.
You MUST be prepared and ready to step in and assist, or be willing to allow the babies to
die. This is the part no one has told you about. It's not easy being a breeder. If you're not
emotionally prepared to live with the consequences of losing mom and/or her babies, DO
NOT BREED your girl!!!
Hopefully, if you've read this far, you're dedicated to doing all you can to ensure the health
of mom and pups. So, how do you prepare for an upcoming Pug litter? DO NOT, under any
circumstances, breed your girl, unless you're prepared to spend 24 x 7 with her from one
week before her due date, until her babies are three weeks old! If you leave her
unattended, you can return to find dead pups. Newborns will still be in their sacks. Puppies
will either get chilled, dehydrated, or mom will lay on and suffocate them. Not on purpose,
but because she doesn't quite know what to make of these strange alien creatures. I've only
had one puppy in over ten years, that mom delivered and got going (opened the sack and got
it breathing) without my help.
Find a breeder/mentor to teach you all the things you may need to know. I can try to
describe it all, but there's no way I can teach you on paper (or a web site) what you might
have to do, unless you're at least familiar with the birth process. I can provide pictures
and/or video, but there's nothing like hands-on experience to give you the best instruction.
Find a mentor! Ask to assist at an upcoming whelping. It could mean the difference in saving
the life of a future puppy of your own, if you can watch and learn!
You might even find someone willing to assist you, or do it for you. Don't make the mistake I
made before I had my first litter and think your vet will bail you out! Unless it's a c-section,
they usually don't just whelp a litter for anyone. But, a few experienced people will, for a
fee. Make sure you know what you're doing, or you have someone available to help, BEFORE
you breed your girl.
NEWBORN CARE
Now that you understand the importance of planning and learning how to whelp your new
litter, we should talk about how to care for the new puppies. Typically, 30% of all puppies die
before being weaned. This might be acceptable to large commercial type breeders, but NOT
acceptable if you understand you can reduce puppy death to less than 10% with proper care.
Approximately 10% of the pups born will have a birth defect that will cause it to die in spite
of the best vet care available. This is very difficult to accept, but to be a breeder, you must.
The most common cause of neonatal death is premature separation of the placenta from the
uterine wall, or a delayed passage down the birth canal, which causes the pup to suffocate
from lack of oxygen before it is born and the sack opened. A perfectly formed little one
that never takes a breath. This happened to me in my first litter. My girl stopped having
contractions after three of her five pups were delivered. She had to have a c-section to
deliver the last two. It was too late for one of the two pups.
Another problem, puppies born with birth defects, seen or unseen. Some live for a few
days, then quickly go downhill. Nothing works to bring them around, and even with expert
care, they eventually pass away. The heartbreak of aspiration pneumonia, almost always fatal,
and infections, viruses, etc., the list goes on. As a responsible breeder, we learn as much as
we can, do everything possible to give each pup a chance, but in the end we cannot control
who lives and who dies. We can't "make" a puppy defect free, or fix what can't be undone.
Learning how to deal with these tragic losses, the emotional toll it takes, the exhaustion of
going without sleep to ensure each precious baby gets a full tummy every 2 - 3 hours, or
more often if one is small, weak, takes a toll. If you can't find a way to deal with these
things, you shouldn't breed.
Being a breeder means rolling up your sleeves and doing some pretty gross stuff, but if you
can't do it with love, you shouldn't breed.
made before I had my first litter and think your vet will bail you out! Unless it's a c-section,
they usually don't just whelp a litter for anyone. But, a few experienced people will, for a
fee. Make sure you know what you're doing, or you have someone available to help, BEFORE
you breed your girl.
NEWBORN CARE
Now that you understand the importance of planning and learning how to whelp your new
litter, we should talk about how to care for the new puppies. Typically, 30% of all puppies die
before being weaned. This might be acceptable to large commercial type breeders, but NOT
acceptable if you understand you can reduce puppy death to less than 10% with proper care.
Approximately 10% of the pups born will have a birth defect that will cause it to die in spite
of the best vet care available. This is very difficult to accept, but to be a breeder, you must.
The most common cause of neonatal death is premature separation of the placenta from the
uterine wall, or a delayed passage down the birth canal, which causes the pup to suffocate
from lack of oxygen before it is born and the sack opened. A perfectly formed little one
that never takes a breath. This happened to me in my first litter. My girl stopped having
contractions after three of her five pups were delivered. She had to have a c-section to
deliver the last two. It was too late for one of the two pups.
Another problem, puppies born with birth defects, seen or unseen. Some live for a few
days, then quickly go downhill. Nothing works to bring them around, and even with expert
care, they eventually pass away. The heartbreak of aspiration pneumonia, almost always fatal,
and infections, viruses, etc., the list goes on. As a responsible breeder, we learn as much as
we can, do everything possible to give each pup a chance, but in the end we cannot control
who lives and who dies. We can't "make" a puppy defect free, or fix what can't be undone.
Learning how to deal with these tragic losses, the emotional toll it takes, the exhaustion of
going without sleep to ensure each precious baby gets a full tummy every 2 - 3 hours, or
more often if one is small, weak, takes a toll. If you can't find a way to deal with these
things, you shouldn't breed.
Being a breeder means rolling up your sleeves and doing some pretty gross stuff, but if you
can't do it with love, you shouldn't breed.
